Buenos Aires is so many things. It’s tango and parrillas. It’s chic shopping districts and gritty neighborhoods. It’s outdoor markets and live music. It’s riding the subway and late nights. When I lived here before, Buenos Aires was almost exclusively about those late nights. I didn’t even see the tango scene. I think my eyes are a little more open this time, even if I’m not able to explore as much. Buenos Aires is such a massive place and seems to have something for everyone. Sheena found ballet classes and I found a black and white photo lab. I think for a city lover, it doesn’t get a lot better than this.
Walking in this city is a sensory overload. Look down so you don’t step in dog poop or that hole where a stone tile is supposed to be. Look ahead so you don’t crash into others on the crowded sidewalk. Look left and right so you don’t miss that great bakery or cool-looking bar. Look up so you don’t miss the beautiful architecture. But don’t look up at the wrong time and get water in your face, dripping off the air-con units. I’ve walked many streets multiple times, hoping not to miss anything.
Notes: there are a couple wonderful city-guide websites out there. Rather than try to recreate a little of those, I’ll just share what I’ve found. This one is the most comprehensive and has awesome guides to each neighborhood (you know it’s good when they include Boedo). This one has some nice articles. And this one is perfect for finding a nice place to eat – the parrilla guide is particularly good.